Tag: hiking

5 Must Sees in Languedoc-Rousillon

5 Must Sees in Languedoc-Rousillon

Languedoc-Rousillon lies between Provence and the Pyrenees, hugging the Mediterranean coast just north of the French / Spanish border. Together with Midi Pyrénées, it forms the new region of Occitanie. Less crowded than Provence, it offers historic towns and cities, rugged mountain scenery, fertile valleys filled with vineyards, and beautiful coastline.

Rich with history and culture, Languedoc is named after the Occitan language that was widely spoken until the 20th century. Further south in Rousillon, Catalan is still spoken, and there are many cultural links with Catalonia to the south. The region was ruled by the Romans, the Visigoths, the Moors, Charlemagne and the Holy Roman Emperors, finally becoming part of France in the late middle ages.

I first visited this area of France in my twenties, and fell in love with the medieval towns and villages, and the beautiful scenery. Returning recently, I have been able to explore the region in more depth, and look forward to spending more time discovering its hidden riches. Here is a list of my 5 ‘Must Sees’ when you visit Languedoc-Rousillon.

1. Pont du Gard

Pont du Gard
Pont du Gard – 1st century AD Roman aqueduct

Built in the 1st Century AD by the Romans, this amazingly well preserved aqueduct carried water to fill the fountains and baths of the Roman city of Nemausus, modern day Nîmes.

At 160 feet / 48.8 meters tall, it is the tallest roman aqueduct, and incredibly well preserved. It stands as testament to the engineering and building skills of the Romans.

A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Pont du Gard attracts a lot of visitors. One way to to avoid the crowds? Rent a kayak and view the aqueduct from the Gardon river below.

More Information.

2. Carcassonne

Medieval walled citadel, Carcassonne
Medieval walled citadel, Carcassonne

The cité, or citadel, at Carcassonne is one of the best remaining examples of a medieval walled city. Across the river Aude from the modern city, its towers dominate the skyline. Fortified since Roman times, most of the current cité is medieval, and was used to guard strategic trade routes from the Atlantic to the Mediterranean, and the Massif Central to the Pyrenees.

Medieval walled citadel, Carcassonne
Medieval walled citadel, Carcassonne

Also a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Carcassonne was a film location for many movies, including Robin Hood: Prince of Thieves. To walk its cobbled streets is to travel back in time.

More Information.

3. Sète

Plan of Sète (Cette) from 1777 — Cette image provient de la Bibliothèque en ligne Gallica sous l'identifiant ARK btv1b53010782c/f48.item, Domaine public, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=31013009
Plan of Sète (Cette) from 1777
(Cette image provient de la Bibliothèque en ligne Gallica sous l’identifiant ARK btv1b53010782c/f48.item, Domaine public, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=31013009)

When Louis XIV ordered the Canal du Midi to be connected to the Mediterranean Sea in the 1660s, the port and town of Sète was founded where the canal met the sea. Set on Mont St Clair, between the salt water lake of Bassin de Thau and the sea, it has always attracted writers, poets and artists.

In the port, fishing boats and sailboats cluster along the piers, and restaurants serve fresh seafood. The town has a large market hall, and many interesting shops and boutiques. Visit Maison Janicot, an épicerie / deli stocked with a vast selection of delicacies and run by friendly, helpful staff.

Enjoying a delicious lunch, Maison Janicot
Enjoying a delicious lunch, Maison Janicot

For an interesting preview of Sète, watch the 1954 black and white movie, La Pointe Courte, by famed French director Agnès Varda. Great scenes of traditional fishing life, and of the ‘water jousting’ that was introduced to celebrate the founding of the town in the 1660s, and persists to this day. It’s a great movie at the forefront of the French New Wave.

South of the town are a series of beautiful beaches, with clear blue water.

Trying to outdance the waves, Plage de Sète
Trying to outdance the waves, Plage de Sète

More information.

4. Gorges d’Héric

Gorges d'Héric, from the River Orb
Gorges d’Héric, from the River Orb

Set in the heart of the Parc Naturel Régional de Haut-Languedoc, the Gorges d’Héric offers a great opportunity to hike and explore the natural beauty created by the river Heric as it carved deep gorges in the side of the Caroux Massif.

Gorges d'Héric, hiking on a winter's day
Gorges d’Héric, hiking on a winter’s day

Park at the base of the trail, just outside the village of Mons, and follow the trail alongside the river, past waterfalls and rock pools, as it winds 5kms / 3 miles up to the hamlet of Héric.

Hiking the Gorges d'Héric, view from the trail
Hiking the Gorges d’Héric, view from the trail

There is a parking fee from Easter until mid-September, and refreshments are available in the parking area and the hamlet of Héric, at the top of the Gorges, during the summer months.

5. Wineries / Vineyards

Wineries / vineyards abound in Languedoc-Rousillon
Wineries / vineyards abound in Languedoc-Rousillon

The wines of Languedoc-Rousillon may not be as well known as those of Bordeaux or Burgundy, but this is one of the oldest wine-producing areas in France, with vines first planted by Greek settlers around Narbonne in the 5th century BC.

Town & Country magazine rates this area as possibly the “best kept wine secret in France”, and the region, formerly know for the quantity, rather than the quality, of its wines is now home to many small wineries that offer an array of excellent vintages.

As you explore the region you will undoubtedly see lots of signs for wine tasting / dégustation de vins.

Where to stay while visiting this area

There is a wide choice of wonderful places to stay in Languedoc-Rousillon. However, if you want to stay in a traditional stone house in a medieval village, within 25 minutes – 2 hours drive of all the highlights listed above, check out the AirBnB listing for our Quaint Stone House in the picturesque village of Villemagne l’Argentière.

NOTE: Any ‘must see’ list like this is by definition subjective. Feel free to add a comment below if you have your own favorite places to visit in Languedoc-Rousillon.

Upper Letts Lake – Camping off the beaten track

Upper Letts Lake – Camping off the beaten track

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When you find a jewel of a campsite, a dilemma arises: do you say nothing, and keep this knowledge to yourself? Or do you scream it from the rooftops, and risk changing the tranquil nature of a little slice of heaven?

I hope to find a middle way… to tell only the relative few who read this blog regularly, and to provide a little more information for anyone who has already heard of Upper Letts Lake, and is seeking out some additional information to determine if this rustic spot is right for them.

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A three and a half hour drive from San Francisco, located at 4,500 feet in the Mendocino National Forest, Letts Lake is accessible enough for a weekend camping trip, yet remote enough for a peaceful getaway.

Upper Letts Lake Campground
Upper Letts Lake Campground

With 42 first come, first served campsites spread throughout 4 loops along the lake, it never feels too busy. And even on busy summer weekends, spots are often still available throughout the weekend.

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Ideal for kayaking and fishing, the lake takes about 40 minutes to walk around, and is home to ospreys and otters.

The campsite has running water and pit toilets, and campers should fill up with gas and supplies at Stonyford General Store, some 17 miles east of the lake, and the only stop coming from Interstate 5.

It’s a little off the beaten track, but well worth the drive. Ask around the campsite, and many people will tell you they visit every year.

“Nature Deficit Disorder”

“Nature Deficit Disorder”

Occasionally you hear a phrase that just resonates! For me “Nature Deficit Disorder” sums up in 3 words a key issue we face in our 24/7 wired, digital age. An article in today’s New York Times discusses America’s fight with obesity, states that surgery and diets may not be the answer, and suggests that “there is an obvious solution — just outside the window.”

East Ridge Trail, Redwood Park
East Ridge Trail, Redwood Park

Of course, getting outside and into nature does more than exercise the body. It takes us out of our digital environment, away from the stress of work, school and society, and helps us relax and unwind. When I feel abnormally stressed, there is a particular trail I like to hike in nearby Redwood Regional Park. As I walk beneath the redwoods that tower above Stream Trail, I can’t help but feel that my troubles are pretty insignificant. I reflect on how long those redwoods have been growing along the banks of the stream, and how long they will be there after I am gone. As I breathe in the clean air and hear only the murmur of water tumbling along the streambed, my stress just evaporates. For me, this helps provide the balance I need to offset the stress of my wired world.

Stream Trail, Redwood Park
Stream Trail, Redwood Park

Even though I had no words to describe it at that time, I first discovered the therapeutic effects of nature as a young boy exploring the woods and fields of my native Ireland. Writer Timothy Egan credits Richard Louv with coining the phrase “Nature Deficit Disorder” in his 2005 book, Last Child in the Woods. According to Egan, Louv finds that “Kids who do play outside are less likely to get sick, to be stressed or become aggressive, and are more adaptable to life’s unpredictable turns”. That certainly makes sense to me!

Hiking along Stream Trail, Redwood Park
Hiking along Stream Trail, Redwood Park

I’ve added Last Child in the Woods to my ‘need to read’ list. But before I check to see if I can find a Kindle edition, I just need to grab the kids, turn off the smartphones and laptops, and head for Stream Trail!

Serenity in the City?

Serenity in the City?

In the San Francisco Bay Area? Want to check out some “hidden” waterfalls in Berkeley? From the northeast corner of Codornices Park, opposite the Berkeley Rose Garden, look for the curving concrete steps, and head up the steps past the elephant…

Elephant, Codornices Park, Berkeley
Elephant, Codornices Park, Berkeley

Just a few feet later, take a left thru the gate marked Private Property…

Gateway to the falls, Tamalpais Path, Berkeley
Gateway to the falls, Tamalpais Path, Berkeley

Relax, it’s cool!! Follow the trail thru the redwoods…

Leave only footprints...
Leave only footprints...

And there it is, a springtime wonder…!!! Nestled between houses right in Berkeley…

Hidden waterfall, Berkeley
Hidden waterfall, Berkeley

The waterfall is the highlight, but small paths meander up the side of the canyon and between the houses. This is truly a beautiful, tranquil spot, and when my daughter and I were there on Sunday, we saw about 6 other people, with dogs and picnics, soaking up the sun and enjoying the serenity amidst the city.

Wild garlic (?) above the waterfall
Wild garlic (?) above the waterfall

Leaving the waterfall behind, we took small paths through the woods back to Tamalpais Path, and made our way back to the hustle and bustle…

Springtime blossoms
Springtime blossoms

I Just May Have to Break Down and Buy a Smartphone…

I Just May Have to Break Down and Buy a Smartphone…

I’ve been resisting it… The lure of instant access to email and the web. The electronic leash of a smartphone. I mean, I must be the only bona fide IT geek in the San Francisco Bay Area who still doesn’t have one, right? Add to that the fact that I am “text averse”, and I guess my cell phone should have a rotary dial on the front.

However, I have now come up with a really good reason to make the jump to a smartphone… A few weeks ago, I’m hiking out to Tennessee Valley Beach in Marin with a really good friend. We hadn’t seen one another in a while, so we are chatting, catching up, when suddenly we come around a bend in the trail, and meet several hushed, awed hikers, “Bobcat, there on the trail…” they whisper. And sure enough, there on a side trail, is a bobcat, hanging out on a Sunday afternoon, totally ignoring all the awestruck bipeds.

So, what does this have to do with a smartphone you ask? Well, everyone else has their iPhones and Droids, and is zooming in for feline close-ups. Me? I take a couple of very sad, fuzzy shots with my 1.3 megapixel not-so-smartphone!

Blurry Bobcat, Tennessee Valley, Marin
Blurry Bobcat, Tennessee Valley, Marin

This is only the 2nd bobcat I’ve seen in the wild, and all I have to show for the encounter is a blurry photo. So yeah,  that smartphone with the 8 megapixel camera? Next time I hike that trail, I’m going to have one with me, just in case…

so we all know San Francisco is beautiful…

so we all know San Francisco is beautiful…

… but sometimes those of us who are lucky enough to live here are so busy, we forget just how beautiful our surroundings are! Or maybe we just start to take it for granted? Either way, in the last couple of weeks, I’ve been reminded, both by personal visits and by news stories about the state budget crisis, of the incredible natural beauty, and unique history of the area, and the need to preserve them both!

Golden Gate from Angel Island
Golden Gate Bridge from Angel Island

Alcatraz is the island in San Francisco Bay that everyone has heard of, along with Al Capone, it’s most famous former resident. But not far beyond Alcatraz lies the much larger Angel Island. A slice of wilderness in the middle of the bay, Angel Island was originally a hunting and fishing site for Coastal Miwok Indians, and later the West Coast equivalent of Ellis Island, when hundreds of thousands of mostly Chinese immigrants were held here prior to being allowed to enter the USA. With great hiking trails, a fascinating history, and spectacular views of San Francisco, Mount Tamalpais and the East Bay, it’s a great place for a picnic, a hike, and, for those who want to learn more about the island’s history, a visit to the newly opened Immigration Station.

Alcatraz and San Francisco, from Angel Island
Alcatraz and San Francisco, from Angel Island

However, once the crowds have left on the last ferry of the day, that’s when you can really experience the magic of this little piece of wilderness! The campsites tend to book up months in advance, so some forward planning is required, but in my mind the best sites are the West Ridge sites, with views of the Golden Gate bridge, Alcatraz, and the San Francisco skyline. It’s hard to beat roasting ‘smores to the backdrop of city lights, fog rolling through the Golden Gate, and the surreal soundtrack of the foghorn!

Beach and fog, Angel Island
Beach and fog, Angel Island

But Angel island is a California State Park, and as such still remains under threat of closure due to the state budget crisis. Park fees are being raised effective Monday, but even that will not be enough to prevent many park closures. I had heard that in the event the state does try to close some parks, the feds are ready to intervene. And on a recent visit to another local park, Point Reyes National Seashore, I had the opportunity to ask a National Park ranger about that. He told me he didn’t know all the details, but confirmed that Point Reyes does have some contingency plans to help out the local state parks should the ‘governator’ proceed with closures.

View from Mt. Wittemberg to the Pacific, Point Reyes
View from Mt. Wittemberg to the Pacific, Point Reyes

And after my recent visits to Angel Island and Point Reyes reminded me once again of the natural beauty of the San Francisco bay area, and the need to do everything we can to help keep our State Parks open, I also found a very evocative photo, that for me sums up our multicultural, mysterious, city by the bay. Click on the thumbnail below and see if you agree!

Dragon attacks

Photo credit for ‘Dragon attacks Golden Gate bridge’: Caitlin of www.roamingtales.com, reproduced with permission.