Tag: travel

5 Must Sees in Languedoc-Rousillon

5 Must Sees in Languedoc-Rousillon

Languedoc-Rousillon lies between Provence and the Pyrenees, hugging the Mediterranean coast just north of the French / Spanish border. Together with Midi Pyrénées, it forms the new region of Occitanie. Less crowded than Provence, it offers historic towns and cities, rugged mountain scenery, fertile valleys filled with vineyards, and beautiful coastline.

Rich with history and culture, Languedoc is named after the Occitan language that was widely spoken until the 20th century. Further south in Rousillon, Catalan is still spoken, and there are many cultural links with Catalonia to the south. The region was ruled by the Romans, the Visigoths, the Moors, Charlemagne and the Holy Roman Emperors, finally becoming part of France in the late middle ages.

I first visited this area of France in my twenties, and fell in love with the medieval towns and villages, and the beautiful scenery. Returning recently, I have been able to explore the region in more depth, and look forward to spending more time discovering its hidden riches. Here is a list of my 5 ‘Must Sees’ when you visit Languedoc-Rousillon.

1. Pont du Gard

Pont du Gard
Pont du Gard – 1st century AD Roman aqueduct

Built in the 1st Century AD by the Romans, this amazingly well preserved aqueduct carried water to fill the fountains and baths of the Roman city of Nemausus, modern day Nîmes.

At 160 feet / 48.8 meters tall, it is the tallest roman aqueduct, and incredibly well preserved. It stands as testament to the engineering and building skills of the Romans.

A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Pont du Gard attracts a lot of visitors. One way to to avoid the crowds? Rent a kayak and view the aqueduct from the Gardon river below.

More Information.

2. Carcassonne

Medieval walled citadel, Carcassonne
Medieval walled citadel, Carcassonne

The cité, or citadel, at Carcassonne is one of the best remaining examples of a medieval walled city. Across the river Aude from the modern city, its towers dominate the skyline. Fortified since Roman times, most of the current cité is medieval, and was used to guard strategic trade routes from the Atlantic to the Mediterranean, and the Massif Central to the Pyrenees.

Medieval walled citadel, Carcassonne
Medieval walled citadel, Carcassonne

Also a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Carcassonne was a film location for many movies, including Robin Hood: Prince of Thieves. To walk its cobbled streets is to travel back in time.

More Information.

3. Sète

Plan of Sète (Cette) from 1777 — Cette image provient de la Bibliothèque en ligne Gallica sous l'identifiant ARK btv1b53010782c/f48.item, Domaine public, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=31013009
Plan of Sète (Cette) from 1777
(Cette image provient de la Bibliothèque en ligne Gallica sous l’identifiant ARK btv1b53010782c/f48.item, Domaine public, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=31013009)

When Louis XIV ordered the Canal du Midi to be connected to the Mediterranean Sea in the 1660s, the port and town of Sète was founded where the canal met the sea. Set on Mont St Clair, between the salt water lake of Bassin de Thau and the sea, it has always attracted writers, poets and artists.

In the port, fishing boats and sailboats cluster along the piers, and restaurants serve fresh seafood. The town has a large market hall, and many interesting shops and boutiques. Visit Maison Janicot, an épicerie / deli stocked with a vast selection of delicacies and run by friendly, helpful staff.

Enjoying a delicious lunch, Maison Janicot
Enjoying a delicious lunch, Maison Janicot

For an interesting preview of Sète, watch the 1954 black and white movie, La Pointe Courte, by famed French director Agnès Varda. Great scenes of traditional fishing life, and of the ‘water jousting’ that was introduced to celebrate the founding of the town in the 1660s, and persists to this day. It’s a great movie at the forefront of the French New Wave.

South of the town are a series of beautiful beaches, with clear blue water.

Trying to outdance the waves, Plage de Sète
Trying to outdance the waves, Plage de Sète

More information.

4. Gorges d’Héric

Gorges d'Héric, from the River Orb
Gorges d’Héric, from the River Orb

Set in the heart of the Parc Naturel Régional de Haut-Languedoc, the Gorges d’Héric offers a great opportunity to hike and explore the natural beauty created by the river Heric as it carved deep gorges in the side of the Caroux Massif.

Gorges d'Héric, hiking on a winter's day
Gorges d’Héric, hiking on a winter’s day

Park at the base of the trail, just outside the village of Mons, and follow the trail alongside the river, past waterfalls and rock pools, as it winds 5kms / 3 miles up to the hamlet of Héric.

Hiking the Gorges d'Héric, view from the trail
Hiking the Gorges d’Héric, view from the trail

There is a parking fee from Easter until mid-September, and refreshments are available in the parking area and the hamlet of Héric, at the top of the Gorges, during the summer months.

5. Wineries / Vineyards

Wineries / vineyards abound in Languedoc-Rousillon
Wineries / vineyards abound in Languedoc-Rousillon

The wines of Languedoc-Rousillon may not be as well known as those of Bordeaux or Burgundy, but this is one of the oldest wine-producing areas in France, with vines first planted by Greek settlers around Narbonne in the 5th century BC.

Town & Country magazine rates this area as possibly the “best kept wine secret in France”, and the region, formerly know for the quantity, rather than the quality, of its wines is now home to many small wineries that offer an array of excellent vintages.

As you explore the region you will undoubtedly see lots of signs for wine tasting / dégustation de vins.

Where to stay while visiting this area

There is a wide choice of wonderful places to stay in Languedoc-Rousillon. However, if you want to stay in a traditional stone house in a medieval village, within 25 minutes – 2 hours drive of all the highlights listed above, check out the AirBnB listing for our Quaint Stone House in the picturesque village of Villemagne l’Argentière.

NOTE: Any ‘must see’ list like this is by definition subjective. Feel free to add a comment below if you have your own favorite places to visit in Languedoc-Rousillon.

Upper Letts Lake – Camping off the beaten track

Upper Letts Lake – Camping off the beaten track

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When you find a jewel of a campsite, a dilemma arises: do you say nothing, and keep this knowledge to yourself? Or do you scream it from the rooftops, and risk changing the tranquil nature of a little slice of heaven?

I hope to find a middle way… to tell only the relative few who read this blog regularly, and to provide a little more information for anyone who has already heard of Upper Letts Lake, and is seeking out some additional information to determine if this rustic spot is right for them.

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A three and a half hour drive from San Francisco, located at 4,500 feet in the Mendocino National Forest, Letts Lake is accessible enough for a weekend camping trip, yet remote enough for a peaceful getaway.

Upper Letts Lake Campground
Upper Letts Lake Campground

With 42 first come, first served campsites spread throughout 4 loops along the lake, it never feels too busy. And even on busy summer weekends, spots are often still available throughout the weekend.

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Ideal for kayaking and fishing, the lake takes about 40 minutes to walk around, and is home to ospreys and otters.

The campsite has running water and pit toilets, and campers should fill up with gas and supplies at Stonyford General Store, some 17 miles east of the lake, and the only stop coming from Interstate 5.

It’s a little off the beaten track, but well worth the drive. Ask around the campsite, and many people will tell you they visit every year.

Adventure on 2 Wheels

Adventure on 2 Wheels

Motorcycle riders develop a sixth sense for road hazards. Learning to ride in Ireland, I developed a healthy respect for slick, windy roads, and the need to share the road with occasional sheep or cattle grazing “the long meadow” (the grass strip along the edge of the road). All this honed my reaction time. But it really did not prepare me for my biggest adventure on 2 wheels: 9 months around India on a 350cc Enfield India Bullet. Hazards included rickshaws, camel carts, elephants, and more bicycles, trucks and buses than I had ever seen in my whole life to date. More on that soon…

Over the years I’ve explored a lot on 2 wheels, both on my own bikes, friends’ bikes, and rental bikes. I’ve also commuted by bike in London, Edinburgh, and here in San Francisco.

So I thought it might be fun to look back at some of those great (and in some cases not so great – click on photos for details!) sets of wheels…

Photo credits:
http://www.blingcheese.com/image/code/6/triumph+tiger.htm
http://themotorbookstore.blogspot.com/2011/03/photo-contest-1962-triumph-3ta-350.html
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Enfield_Bullet_350,_Kathgodam,_India.jpg
http://motorbike-search-engine.co.uk/classic_bikes/honda-cd175.jpg
http://www.totalmotorcycle.com/yourbikephotos6.htm

Barcelona – Gaudi, and so much more!

Barcelona – Gaudi, and so much more!

Port Vell, Barcelona
Port Vell, Barcelona

Barcelona is famous for the inspirational architectural designs of Antoni Gaudi, futuristic works of art that appear to transcend time and place. But, with a history dating back to Roman times, Barcelona has many layers waiting to be peeled back and discovered, and is a city well worth several days of exploration…

Here’s a quick visual sampler…

And the Award for Creative Recycling goes to…

And the Award for Creative Recycling goes to…

Vientiane may be the capital of Laos, but it is still pretty off the beaten path. So, wandering around the hot and fairly empty streets, the last thing I expected to see was truly creative recycling. But, wandering into a store that sold everything from wooden bowls to brightly colored cloth, there it was… an old TV with live fish swimming around inside the “screen”! Now that’s thoughtful recycling!

TV reborn as Fish Tank, Vientiane, Laos
TV reborn as Fish Tank, Vientiane, Laos

You collect shoes? I collect doors…

You collect shoes? I collect doors…

OK, so I don’t collect actual doors… But when I travel to a new city or country, one of the things I love to do is to get well away from the main thoroughfares, to explore interesting smaller side streets and alleyways in older neighborhoods. People are friendlier, and often take time to stop to chat. And the older houses are often mysterious and inaccessible behind carved wooden doors and intricate entryways.

Maybe my fascination with doors is a literal interpretation of my desire to see what lies beyond, a manifestation of a “portal to another world” fantasy?

Exploring San Francisco…

Exploring San Francisco…

Sometimes we are so busy with our daily lives, that we forget how much fun it can be to slow down, and explore the world at our own doorstep.

Yesterday I got to do just that for a few hours. My colleagues and I took an afternoon off work to go bo

nd in the city! We took a BART train from Oakland, traveled under the bay to San Francisco, and met Lily, an Urban Adventures tour guide, at the Ferry Building to embark on the Embarcadero, Ferry Building and Fortunes Tour.

old and new in San Francisco

We first took some time to look across the bay to Treasure Island as Lily explained its 1939 World Fair origins. Then we explored the Ferry Building, indulging our lunchtime appetites with some of the great fare on offer – personally I recommend the Turkey Pot Pies offered by the Golden Gate Meat Company, very tasty!

Striking out from the Ferry Building, we navigated some of the elevated walkways of the Embarcadero Towers. With their giant pots of bamboo and quiet corners, it’s easy to forget you are in the middle of the Financial district – even more so when you arrive at the half acre Redwood Grove at the base of the Transamerica Pyramid! Transplanted from the Santa Cruz mountains, the redwoods bring a tranquility and natural beauty to this corner of the city that I was previously unaware of!

From there it was just a few blocks to Vesuvio Cafe. At the intersection of North Beach, Chinatown and the Financial district, Vesuvio and the neighboring City Lights bookstore are filled with mementos of Kerouac, Ginsberg, Ferlingheti and the beat generation. So of course we had to stop for liquid refreshment, and some appropriately contemplative conversation, at this historic shrine!

We then strolled the colorful streets of Chinatown, and stopped briefly at the old Bank of Italy to marvel at the workmanship of the impressively over-engineered vault door. At the Wells Fargo Museum (another previously unknown ‘gem’ for me!) I left my colleagues to explore the stagecoaches and look at nuggets of gold, as I cut short the tour to catch a train back to the East Bay, happy to have discovered some new treasures at my doorstep…

Time to plan a trip?

Time to plan a trip?

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So I know I can’t complain about living in the San Francisco bay area! But even though we don’t get snow, and rarely even need to scrape ice off our windshields, winter can still be wet and (for us at least!) relatively cold!

And yes, I know we need the rain, but when it’s coming down as hard as it was today, my mind tends to turn to travel… Somehow an afternoon downpour, viewed from the porch of a jungle lodge in Costa Rica, or a beachfront bungalow in Belize, is SO much easier to take than from behind the wheel on a slick four lane highway.

So, time to break out the maps and travel brochures, and start planning a trip to more hospitable climes… Any good recommendations?

Evening the odds with airlines…

Evening the odds with airlines…

We’ve all had it happen. A flight is canceled or severely delayed, and our “best-laid schemes” are truly shot. I was just on the East Coast, visiting schools with my high school senior daughter. We had a flight canceled due to bad weather, got re-booked on a flight the next morning, only to have it delayed by several hours due to mechanical problems, causing us to miss an appointment at a school in St. Louis. In fact, we ended up missing St. Louis altogether, flying straight back to California.

Airlines do not normally offer any compensation for weather related delays, but if the problem is caused by something the airline has more control over, such as a mechanical problem, then they are much more likely to be responsive to your reasonable requests. Here is a short list of guidelines I use in this situation, including playing the “social media card” to even the odds just a bit…

1. Be clear and concise when describing the problem (“this 3rd delay means that I will miss my meeting / interview / appointment and I will now have to reschedule and make another trip”).

2. Let them know exactly what you would like (“since I will have to buy another ticket because of this delay, I am requesting that you issue me a $200 / $300 / $400 voucher good for future travel”).

3. Be polite but firm, and ask to speak to the person in charge (“I’m requesting a $400 travel credit and you are offering me a $6 meal coupon? Can I please speak with your manager?”).

4. It’s OK to get a little emotional, but don’t make it personal (“this flight cancellation and delay will cost me a lot of money, and you are offering me a $6 coupon? I’m sorry, but that is just insulting! I need to speak with whoever is in charge”).

5. When speaking with a manager empowered to resolve the problem, remind them of the power of social media (“I’m sure you would like to get this issue resolved as much as I would, and then I can tweet / yelp / blog about what a great job you did in resolving my problem”).

6. Be prepared to spend some time negotiating for a satisfactory settlement.

7. When you are offered a satisfactory resolution, be gracious and appreciative, but save the happy dance for later!

In our case, we received upgrades to Business Elite on our flight back to San Francisco, and vouchers that should pay for round trip tickets to St. Louis. Thanks Delta for taking care of us and resolving the problem! And special thanks to Marina V for making it happen!!

Yet another thing to consider when planning a trip…

Yet another thing to consider when planning a trip…

For me, planning a trip is fun. Excitement builds as the departure day approaches, and there is always a last minute rush to get everything done before heading to the airport to embark on a new adventure.

Researching authentic places to stay, deciding which interesting towns or villages to include on your itinerary, figuring out which activities to check out when you get there – all fun! Getting shots and visas – not so much!

And now? As part of your initial, pre-trip research, you can check out the Global Peace Index to assist in deciding which countries to visit.  A handy color-coded map let’s you see at a glance that whole areas of the world are “green” (as in go), or “red” (as in maybe not!).

Global Peace Index
Global Peace Index

The 2011 Global Peace Index Key Findings attest that, for the 3rd straight year, the world is a less safe place. Of course, your reaction to this report may be influenced by where you live. If you live in Iceland or Japan (per the report, the 2 safest nations), then traveling anywhere else can by definition appear a little scary. However, if like me you live in the USA, which ranked 82nd of 153 countries, you can in theory travel to over half the countries in the world, and be safer there than you would be at home. Although, no matter how adventurous you may be feeling, it would still be smart to avoid Iraq and Somalia, at 152 and 153 respectively!