Author: RM

5 Must Sees in Languedoc-Rousillon

5 Must Sees in Languedoc-Rousillon

Languedoc-Rousillon lies between Provence and the Pyrenees, hugging the Mediterranean coast just north of the French / Spanish border. Together with Midi Pyrénées, it forms the new region of Occitanie. Less crowded than Provence, it offers historic towns and cities, rugged mountain scenery, fertile valleys filled with vineyards, and beautiful coastline.

Rich with history and culture, Languedoc is named after the Occitan language that was widely spoken until the 20th century. Further south in Rousillon, Catalan is still spoken, and there are many cultural links with Catalonia to the south. The region was ruled by the Romans, the Visigoths, the Moors, Charlemagne and the Holy Roman Emperors, finally becoming part of France in the late middle ages.

I first visited this area of France in my twenties, and fell in love with the medieval towns and villages, and the beautiful scenery. Returning recently, I have been able to explore the region in more depth, and look forward to spending more time discovering its hidden riches. Here is a list of my 5 ‘Must Sees’ when you visit Languedoc-Rousillon.

1. Pont du Gard

Pont du Gard
Pont du Gard – 1st century AD Roman aqueduct

Built in the 1st Century AD by the Romans, this amazingly well preserved aqueduct carried water to fill the fountains and baths of the Roman city of Nemausus, modern day Nîmes.

At 160 feet / 48.8 meters tall, it is the tallest roman aqueduct, and incredibly well preserved. It stands as testament to the engineering and building skills of the Romans.

A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Pont du Gard attracts a lot of visitors. One way to to avoid the crowds? Rent a kayak and view the aqueduct from the Gardon river below.

More Information.

2. Carcassonne

Medieval walled citadel, Carcassonne
Medieval walled citadel, Carcassonne

The cité, or citadel, at Carcassonne is one of the best remaining examples of a medieval walled city. Across the river Aude from the modern city, its towers dominate the skyline. Fortified since Roman times, most of the current cité is medieval, and was used to guard strategic trade routes from the Atlantic to the Mediterranean, and the Massif Central to the Pyrenees.

Medieval walled citadel, Carcassonne
Medieval walled citadel, Carcassonne

Also a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Carcassonne was a film location for many movies, including Robin Hood: Prince of Thieves. To walk its cobbled streets is to travel back in time.

More Information.

3. Sète

Plan of Sète (Cette) from 1777 — Cette image provient de la Bibliothèque en ligne Gallica sous l'identifiant ARK btv1b53010782c/f48.item, Domaine public, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=31013009
Plan of Sète (Cette) from 1777
(Cette image provient de la Bibliothèque en ligne Gallica sous l’identifiant ARK btv1b53010782c/f48.item, Domaine public, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=31013009)

When Louis XIV ordered the Canal du Midi to be connected to the Mediterranean Sea in the 1660s, the port and town of Sète was founded where the canal met the sea. Set on Mont St Clair, between the salt water lake of Bassin de Thau and the sea, it has always attracted writers, poets and artists.

In the port, fishing boats and sailboats cluster along the piers, and restaurants serve fresh seafood. The town has a large market hall, and many interesting shops and boutiques. Visit Maison Janicot, an épicerie / deli stocked with a vast selection of delicacies and run by friendly, helpful staff.

Enjoying a delicious lunch, Maison Janicot
Enjoying a delicious lunch, Maison Janicot

For an interesting preview of Sète, watch the 1954 black and white movie, La Pointe Courte, by famed French director Agnès Varda. Great scenes of traditional fishing life, and of the ‘water jousting’ that was introduced to celebrate the founding of the town in the 1660s, and persists to this day. It’s a great movie at the forefront of the French New Wave.

South of the town are a series of beautiful beaches, with clear blue water.

Trying to outdance the waves, Plage de Sète
Trying to outdance the waves, Plage de Sète

More information.

4. Gorges d’Héric

Gorges d'Héric, from the River Orb
Gorges d’Héric, from the River Orb

Set in the heart of the Parc Naturel Régional de Haut-Languedoc, the Gorges d’Héric offers a great opportunity to hike and explore the natural beauty created by the river Heric as it carved deep gorges in the side of the Caroux Massif.

Gorges d'Héric, hiking on a winter's day
Gorges d’Héric, hiking on a winter’s day

Park at the base of the trail, just outside the village of Mons, and follow the trail alongside the river, past waterfalls and rock pools, as it winds 5kms / 3 miles up to the hamlet of Héric.

Hiking the Gorges d'Héric, view from the trail
Hiking the Gorges d’Héric, view from the trail

There is a parking fee from Easter until mid-September, and refreshments are available in the parking area and the hamlet of Héric, at the top of the Gorges, during the summer months.

5. Wineries / Vineyards

Wineries / vineyards abound in Languedoc-Rousillon
Wineries / vineyards abound in Languedoc-Rousillon

The wines of Languedoc-Rousillon may not be as well known as those of Bordeaux or Burgundy, but this is one of the oldest wine-producing areas in France, with vines first planted by Greek settlers around Narbonne in the 5th century BC.

Town & Country magazine rates this area as possibly the “best kept wine secret in France”, and the region, formerly know for the quantity, rather than the quality, of its wines is now home to many small wineries that offer an array of excellent vintages.

As you explore the region you will undoubtedly see lots of signs for wine tasting / dégustation de vins.

Where to stay while visiting this area

There is a wide choice of wonderful places to stay in Languedoc-Rousillon. However, if you want to stay in a traditional stone house in a medieval village, within 25 minutes – 2 hours drive of all the highlights listed above, check out the AirBnB listing for our Quaint Stone House in the picturesque village of Villemagne l’Argentière.

NOTE: Any ‘must see’ list like this is by definition subjective. Feel free to add a comment below if you have your own favorite places to visit in Languedoc-Rousillon.

I once had this job… Intro

I once had this job… Intro

You know when you’re with a group of friends, maybe sitting around a campfire, or on a patio on a warm evening, and someone starts talking about travel? And there’s invariably someone who has a crazy story, maybe about traveling in West Africa during a coup attempt, and getting mistaken for a mercenary? Or about visiting a Soviet collective winery in an old double decker bus, with a group of Swiss marxist students? Or maybe about appearing in court in Sudan to convince the judge that, ‘no, my scared out of his mind friend here wasn’t really trying to change money on the black market, it was just a terrible misunderstanding’?

Well, more often than not, I’ve been that person. Over the years, people have told me, ‘you need to write this stuff down!’ So here goes…

My desire to explore emerged early. At age two, my mother left me to nap on the porch of our house (as all good Irish mothers did, since, come snow, rain or shine, kids needed ‘fresh air’!). At some point, I unbuckled myself from my stroller, climbed the 6 foot gate, and dropped carefully to the street below. I was free to explore! Several hours later, my distraught mother and grandmother found me half a mile away, happily holding a big mug of sweet, strong tea made on an open coal brazier, listening to the ‘roadmen’ as they entertained me, between filling in potholes with asphalt heated over that same coal brazier. “We knew someone would come looking for him eventually Missus”, they said.

That was how it all started – my desire to explore and travel! Check back for further installments…

Driving from Ngorongoro Crater floor back up to the rim
Driving from Ngorongoro Crater floor back up to the crater rim, Tanzania

Valparaiso, Chile – Art on Every Corner

Valparaiso, Chile – Art on Every Corner

Valparaiso, Chile is a down to earth, blue collar sort of place. As a port city, it has been influenced by the many cultures of people arriving by sea for the last 200 years, especially prior to the building of the Panama Canal. Before the canal cut weeks off their passage, all ships from Europe or the East Coast of the US had to round the straits of Magellan and hug the coast of Chile on their long journey to San Francisco or even Asia. Valparaiso offered a welcome stop on those long voyages. Valparaiso’s steep hills offer  spectacular views of the town and the Pacific, but for me it was the warmth of the people and the art of Valparaiso that made it so memorable. Known for its vibrant street art, Valparaiso also has several interesting museums.

We stayed in an AirBnB on Cerro Bellavista, a hill rising steeply from Plaza Victoria in the center of town. Our apartment was in the heart of the Museo a Cielo Abierto (Open Air Museum), an area featuring about 20 murals on the facades and gables of buildings spread over several blocks on the steep hillside. However, the whole city is in effect an open air museum, with colorful, intriguing murals scattered across the steep hillsides.

A steep 20 minute walk up Cerro Bellavista brings you to La Sebastiana. Formerly the home of Pablo Neruda, it is now a museum. The house is filled with artwork and artifacts from Neruda’s eclectic collection. Visiting his study on the top floor, and looking out over the city curved around the broad bay, you can almost feel some of the inspiration that propelled Neruda’s literary genius.

Back down in the center of town, the Museo de Historia Natural provides insight into the rich environment and natural history of Chile. Exhibits display the rich marine life off Chile’s coastline, the ecosystem of the Aconcagua river, and the variety of flora and fauna that inhabit the varied ecosystems as far south as Patagonia.

The Palacio Baburizza, a 19th century Italianate, Art Nouveau landmark that houses several art collections, is also well worth a visit.

While much of the art seemed somber and somewhat gloomy, I found the house fascinating, and really enjoyed several pieces of art, especially a thought provoking sculpture of a trial, El Juicio, which I found intriguing and Kafkaesque.

Plaza Victoria comes to life with artists and stalls at night and on the weekend, and provides a great place to experience both the vibrant artistic life of the city, and the warm curiosity of its inhabitants towards visitors from other cultures.

And of course, no visit to Valparaiso would be complete without a taste of the local empanadas, and I can personally recommend the great selection and high quality of Casa de la Empanada Porteño.

 

Upper Letts Lake – Camping off the beaten track

Upper Letts Lake – Camping off the beaten track

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When you find a jewel of a campsite, a dilemma arises: do you say nothing, and keep this knowledge to yourself? Or do you scream it from the rooftops, and risk changing the tranquil nature of a little slice of heaven?

I hope to find a middle way… to tell only the relative few who read this blog regularly, and to provide a little more information for anyone who has already heard of Upper Letts Lake, and is seeking out some additional information to determine if this rustic spot is right for them.

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A three and a half hour drive from San Francisco, located at 4,500 feet in the Mendocino National Forest, Letts Lake is accessible enough for a weekend camping trip, yet remote enough for a peaceful getaway.

Upper Letts Lake Campground
Upper Letts Lake Campground

With 42 first come, first served campsites spread throughout 4 loops along the lake, it never feels too busy. And even on busy summer weekends, spots are often still available throughout the weekend.

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Ideal for kayaking and fishing, the lake takes about 40 minutes to walk around, and is home to ospreys and otters.

The campsite has running water and pit toilets, and campers should fill up with gas and supplies at Stonyford General Store, some 17 miles east of the lake, and the only stop coming from Interstate 5.

It’s a little off the beaten track, but well worth the drive. Ask around the campsite, and many people will tell you they visit every year.

Exploring Angkor Wat

Exploring Angkor Wat

So this is a post with a mission. I had wanted to visit Angkor Wat for many years, and finally got to do so in 2008. I was amazed at the sheer number of Khmer temples around Siem Reap; the architectural variety – from the step-pyramid like Phimeanakas (reminiscent of a Mayan pyramid) to the temple of Angkor Wat itself with its five soaring towers; and the artistic themes – from the fluid bas reliefs of Apsaras (dancers) at the Terrace of the Leper King, to the cobblestone-like carved lingams in the river bed of Kbal Spean. Now my daughter, living in Thailand for a year, is about to visit and asked me for some pointers.

There is so much to see in and around Angkor Wat – where to start? I definitely did not get to see it all in the few days I was there. So here, very briefly, are some of the places that touched me most. Click on the photos below for more details…

Adventure on 2 Wheels

Adventure on 2 Wheels

Motorcycle riders develop a sixth sense for road hazards. Learning to ride in Ireland, I developed a healthy respect for slick, windy roads, and the need to share the road with occasional sheep or cattle grazing “the long meadow” (the grass strip along the edge of the road). All this honed my reaction time. But it really did not prepare me for my biggest adventure on 2 wheels: 9 months around India on a 350cc Enfield India Bullet. Hazards included rickshaws, camel carts, elephants, and more bicycles, trucks and buses than I had ever seen in my whole life to date. More on that soon…

Over the years I’ve explored a lot on 2 wheels, both on my own bikes, friends’ bikes, and rental bikes. I’ve also commuted by bike in London, Edinburgh, and here in San Francisco.

So I thought it might be fun to look back at some of those great (and in some cases not so great – click on photos for details!) sets of wheels…

Photo credits:
http://www.blingcheese.com/image/code/6/triumph+tiger.htm
http://themotorbookstore.blogspot.com/2011/03/photo-contest-1962-triumph-3ta-350.html
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Enfield_Bullet_350,_Kathgodam,_India.jpg
http://motorbike-search-engine.co.uk/classic_bikes/honda-cd175.jpg
http://www.totalmotorcycle.com/yourbikephotos6.htm

Barcelona – Gaudi, and so much more!

Barcelona – Gaudi, and so much more!

Port Vell, Barcelona
Port Vell, Barcelona

Barcelona is famous for the inspirational architectural designs of Antoni Gaudi, futuristic works of art that appear to transcend time and place. But, with a history dating back to Roman times, Barcelona has many layers waiting to be peeled back and discovered, and is a city well worth several days of exploration…

Here’s a quick visual sampler…

My Favorite Travel App

My Favorite Travel App

So there are LOTS of great travel apps out there, like Tripit (to tame all those wild, travel-related emails and cage them in a single itinerary) and Kayak (to research alternatives to that canceled flight!), but my current favorite is WhatsApp.

WhatsApp
photo credit: WhatsApp.com

One of my pet peeves is being hit up for international texting charges, both when I’m traveling, and when I’m home and just want to exchange a quick text with a friend or relative overseas. And even more frustrating than the 50c per text charge, is the fact that I often don’t even receive the texts I’m sent. So I send a text, wait for a response, and wait… and wait… Grrr!

Yes, it’s not even a ‘real’ travel app, but WhatsApp allows me to exchange texts for free with friends on non US networks, at no charge, with no delivery issues.  And when I’m traveling I can use it over WiFi and not incur any data roaming charges. And I can even attach photos… What’s not to love?

Found a travel app you just love? Do tell…

“Nature Deficit Disorder”

“Nature Deficit Disorder”

Occasionally you hear a phrase that just resonates! For me “Nature Deficit Disorder” sums up in 3 words a key issue we face in our 24/7 wired, digital age. An article in today’s New York Times discusses America’s fight with obesity, states that surgery and diets may not be the answer, and suggests that “there is an obvious solution — just outside the window.”

East Ridge Trail, Redwood Park
East Ridge Trail, Redwood Park

Of course, getting outside and into nature does more than exercise the body. It takes us out of our digital environment, away from the stress of work, school and society, and helps us relax and unwind. When I feel abnormally stressed, there is a particular trail I like to hike in nearby Redwood Regional Park. As I walk beneath the redwoods that tower above Stream Trail, I can’t help but feel that my troubles are pretty insignificant. I reflect on how long those redwoods have been growing along the banks of the stream, and how long they will be there after I am gone. As I breathe in the clean air and hear only the murmur of water tumbling along the streambed, my stress just evaporates. For me, this helps provide the balance I need to offset the stress of my wired world.

Stream Trail, Redwood Park
Stream Trail, Redwood Park

Even though I had no words to describe it at that time, I first discovered the therapeutic effects of nature as a young boy exploring the woods and fields of my native Ireland. Writer Timothy Egan credits Richard Louv with coining the phrase “Nature Deficit Disorder” in his 2005 book, Last Child in the Woods. According to Egan, Louv finds that “Kids who do play outside are less likely to get sick, to be stressed or become aggressive, and are more adaptable to life’s unpredictable turns”. That certainly makes sense to me!

Hiking along Stream Trail, Redwood Park
Hiking along Stream Trail, Redwood Park

I’ve added Last Child in the Woods to my ‘need to read’ list. But before I check to see if I can find a Kindle edition, I just need to grab the kids, turn off the smartphones and laptops, and head for Stream Trail!

And the Award for Creative Recycling goes to…

And the Award for Creative Recycling goes to…

Vientiane may be the capital of Laos, but it is still pretty off the beaten path. So, wandering around the hot and fairly empty streets, the last thing I expected to see was truly creative recycling. But, wandering into a store that sold everything from wooden bowls to brightly colored cloth, there it was… an old TV with live fish swimming around inside the “screen”! Now that’s thoughtful recycling!

TV reborn as Fish Tank, Vientiane, Laos
TV reborn as Fish Tank, Vientiane, Laos